The Ghosts of Emmaus

Last Updated on June 2, 2020 by


In August-September of 2005 I did a very interesting trek alone on foot across central Israel. I walked altogether about 200 miles with my backpack, from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, then around the Jerusalem mountains and off south-west from there towards the old Philistine city of Gath, today the modern town of Kiryat Gat.

I was mostly following an officially marked nature trail known as “the Israel Path”, which crisscrosses this country from its northernmost outpost on Mount Hermon and eventually gets to the southern port of Eilat. I started by walking several miles from my house in Jaffa along the shoreline to the north of Tel Aviv, to join the trail where it starts east towards Jerusalem following the Yarkon river. All my friends knew that I was walking the trail, and some would drive up occasionally for a few hours at night, to sit with me by the fire. But I was essentially alone almost the entire time.