Following is instructions on how to build and use Dream Light Goggles. These
goggles are intended to be a mechanical aid to Lucid Dreaming. They are roughly
patterened after Stephen LaBerge’s “Dreamlight”.
THEORY AND USE: The best way to understand the use of dream light goggles is
to read Stephen LaBerge’s book, “Exploring the world of Lucid Dreaming”. The
function of the goggles is based on the use of “dreamsigns”. A dreamsign is
simply something within a dream that serves to trigger our recognition that we
are dreaming (and become lucid). If you are working on inducing lucid dreams,
dreamsigns become important. And the way to use dreamsigns is to take notice of
common, recurring objects or events in your dreams. Especially if these objects
or events have triggered lucidity before.
For example: The most common dreamsign for me is flying. I have been doing
this flying for so long, that now, as soon as I find myself flying in a dream I
almost always immediately recognize that I’m dreaming.
Another dreamsign I discovered by looking back over my lucid dreams is
“cliffs and high places”. I have found that these experiences often precede my
becoming lucid in a dream. Only a couple nights after I realized that cliffs
were a dreamsign for me I had a dream in which I was climbing up the face of a
cliff. I was having trouble and thought I might fall. Then suddenly it hit me…
Climbing a Cliff! I’m dreaming!.
Once you learn what your common dreamsigns are then you must program yourself
to recognize that dreamsign as a indication that you’re dreaming.
Now the problem with dreamsigns is that we must wait for them to happen and
then hope that we recognize them when they do. And that is the function of the
dreamlight. The dreamlight provides a ready- made dreamsign that you can program
to happen when you choose.
The dreamlight or “dream goggles” as I call my device, are designed to flash
a bright red light in your eyes at a predetermined time. Unlike LaBerges
dreamlight these goggles have no way of determining when you are in REM sleep.
So we must use a hit and miss technique of having them come on when you’re
dreaming. There are two methods of doing this:
(1) Set the alarm clock to come on about 1-1/2 or 3 hours after you think
you’ll fall asleep, and set the sound/light switch to light. Then put on the
goggles and fall asleep. The reason for 1-1/2 or 3 hours is that we normally
have 90 minute sleep cycles, and you want the lights to come on as you are
passing through REM on the way out of a
The problem with this method is that there’s a very good chance that you
won’t be in REM when the lights turn on. Also it can be difficult to sleep for a
long period of time with the goggles on. However this has a hidden benifite in
that it interrupts your sleep pattern so much that that in itself can bring
about a lucid dream, (it worked for me).
(2) Set the “sound” alarm to go on at a time early in the morning, at least
an hour before you have to get up. When the alarm wakes you up reach over and
push the snooze button, then put on the goggles and switch the alarm to
“lights”. Now you have 9 minutes to fall back asleep. If you can fall asleep
before the alarm (lights) comes on again you will most likely be in a dream. If
you aren’t quite asleep yet, just push snooze again and try again.
I have been sucessful with this method. However more often than not I am so
tired when the alarm goes off that I either don’t bother to mess with the
goggles or I put them on and then fall into a deep sleep and sleep right through
the flashing lights.
This is not a fool proof method of attaining lucidity in a dream. However I
believe if you put enough effort into it (more then I have), it could prove to
be valuable aid.
DISCLAIMER – I believe the device constructed in the way I describe to be
safe, but I’m no electrician. I’m not responsible if it burns down your house,
or shocks you. If you’re going to be taking apart electrical appliances you
really should know what you’re doing yourself.
HOW TO BUILD THE DREAM LIGHT GOGGLES
PARTS: 1. AC powered LED Alarm clock with at least a 9 minute snooze
function. The clock I use is a Spartus model 1108, it is small, about
5.5″X3″X2″. It cost about $9.00. Any small LED clock would probably work as long
as the voltage to the speaker is not too high. The speaker voltage on the
Spartus is about 7 volts DC.
2. Swim eye goggles. Cost about $7.00. The main thing is to find a pair that
is fairly comfortable. I’m using Speedo brand. You can get cheaper ones, but it
might be worth it to get a pair you can actually sleep with.
3. Two Radio Shack Red High-Brightness Jumbo Blinking Light- Emitting Diodes
Catalog No. 276-020 $3.99 ea.
4. One Low-Current Red LED (Light Emitting Diode) $0.89
5. About 6 feet of speaker wire.
6. One toggle switch. This should be a 3 pole, 2 position switch, like Radio
Shack’s Mini DPDT #275-663 $3.59
ASSEMBLY – STEP ONE:
Using a tapered steel centerpunch, or some other suitable device burn a hole
in the center of each plastic lens of the swim goggles. A tapered punch works
well. Use a torch to heat it up, it doesn’t have to be red hot (if you make it
red hot you will take the temper out of the punch).
Then burn a hole in the lens until it is just the right size to snugly fit
the Jumbo Blinking Diodes. The diodes are tapered and you don’t want them to fit
all the way into the goggles or they might touch your eyelids. Once you’ve done
this put the goggles aside until you wire up the diodes.
Making sure the clock is unplugged, unscrew the back and take the clock
apart. You should be able to get to the flat piezo type speaker. Next burn a
hole in the body of the clock at the top to hold the toggle switch. Make sure
you put it in a place where it won’t touch anything on the inside of the clock.
Cut the positive wire leading from the circuit board of the clock to the
speaker. Use a voltmeter to tell which one is positive. It’s not necessarily the
red wire. On the clock I used the black wire was positive.
It really doesn’t matter if you use the negative instead of the positive,
except that the diodes are directional, they have a positive and negative pole
and so will only work in one way. The way I’m describing is assuming you are
using the positive side.
Be sure you cut the speaker wire in a place that you can get the solder leads
to it. Now solder the positive speaker wire you just cut coming from the circuit
board to the middle pole of the toggle switch.
Now take the small red LED and solder the long lead of the diode (Pos. side)
to one of the outside poles of the toggle switch. I found that there is a
residual voltage in the speaker circuit even when the alarm is not active, and
this is enough to cause the diodes in the goggles to emit a small amount of
light even when the circuit is not active. I tried resisters but I found that
putting this red LED in the circuit worked the best to prevent this. For this
reason this LED can be inside the clock box, just make sure it doesn’t short
Next solder one end of one wire in the two wire speaker cable to the other
lead of the red LED (the short one). Most speaker cable has a way to identify
one wire from the other. Some have a white line on one wire, or one wire may be
brass and other silver. It’s best to use the wire with the marking so that you
know that it is the positive side. The length of the wire is to determine how
far you want to be from the clock when you’re sleeping. 6ft should be plenty.
Now take the other end of the positive speaker wire and solder it to the long
(pos) lead of the first Jumbo Blinking LED. Then take a short piece of speaker
wire and solder it from the short lead of the first Jumbo LED to the long lead
of the second Jumbo LED. Be sure you make this jumper wire the right length so
that the two LEDs are spaced the proper distance apart to fit in the goggles.
Next take the goggles end of the other speaker wire (neg. side) and solder it
to the short lead of the second Jumbo LED. Take the clock end of that same wire
and splice it into the negitive speaker wire. This makes a complete circuit from
the positive side of the circuit board, through the toggle switch, through the
lights in the goggles and back to the negative speaker wire leading to the
circuit board. This means that when the switch closes this circuit the lights
will come on every time the clock sends an alarm pulse to the speaker.
Now you must conect the other side of the speaker wire you cut (the speaker
side) to the other outside pole of the toggle switch. You will probably have to
solder in a jumper wire to do this. This completes the speaker circuit so that
when the switch is set to speaker the speaker sounds when the alarm turns on. Be
sure you insulate all your exposed conections.
Now burn a notch in the back panel of the clock for the goggles wire to pass
through and put a knot in the wire just inside the box so that it can’t be
pulled out. Now put the clock back together.
The last thing to do now is to put the Jumbo LEDs into the holes in the
goggle lenses. Use a black tape to tape them into place and block out light into
the goggles from outside. Insulate all the exposed leads of the LEDs. Run the
wire from the LEDs along the goggle strap and tape them to the strap so that the
wire exit the goggles from the strap at the back of the head. Leave enough slack
to allow for stretching of the strap.