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Build Dream Light Goggles

Posted on March 26, 2005 By jim No Comments on Build Dream Light Goggles

courtesy of Gene Ariani.

——————————————————————–

Following is instructions on how to build and use Dream Light

Goggles. These goggles are intended to be a mechanical aid to Lucid

Dreaming. They are roughly patterened after Stephen LaBerge’s

“Dreamlight”.

THEORY AND USE: The best way to understand the use of dream light

goggles is to read Stephen LaBerge’s book,

“Exploring the world of Lucid Dreaming”. The

function of the goggles is based on the use of

“dreamsigns”. A dreamsign is simply something

within a dream that serves to trigger our

recognition that we are dreaming (and become

lucid). If you are working on inducing lucid

dreams, dreamsigns become important. And the way

to use dreamsigns is to take notice of common,

recurring objects or events in your dreams.

Especially if these objects or events have

triggered lucidity before.

For example: The most common dreamsign for me is flying. I have

been doing this flying for so long, that now, as soon as I find

myself flying in a dream I almost always immediately recognize that

I’m dreaming.

Another dreamsign I discovered by looking back over my lucid dreams

is “cliffs and high places”. I have found that these experiences

often precede my becoming lucid in a dream. Only a couple nights

after I realized that cliffs were a dreamsign for me I had a dream

in which I was climbing up the face of a cliff. I was having

trouble and thought I might fall. Then suddenly it hit me…

Climbing a Cliff! I’m dreaming!.

Once you learn what your common dreamsigns are then you must program

yourself to recognize that dreamsign as a indication that you’re

dreaming.

Now the problem with dreamsigns is that we must wait for them to

happen and then hope that we recognize them when they do. And that

is the function of the dreamlight. The dreamlight provides a ready-

made dreamsign that you can program to happen when you choose.

The dreamlight or “dream goggles” as I call my device, are designed

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to flash a bright red light in your eyes at a predetermined time.

Unlike LaBerges dreamlight these goggles have no way of determining

when you are in REM sleep. So we must use a hit and miss technique

of having them come on when you’re dreaming. There are two methods

of doing this:

(1) Set the alarm clock to come on about 1-1/2 or 3 hours

after you think you’ll fall asleep, and set the

sound/light switch to light. Then put on the goggles and

fall asleep. The reason for 1-1/2 or 3 hours is that we

normally have 90 minute sleep cycles, and you want the

lights to come on as you are passing through REM on the

way _out_ of a sleep cycle.

The problem with this method is that there’s a very good chance that

you won’t be in REM when the lights turn on. Also it can be

difficult to sleep for a long period of time with the goggles on.

However this has a hidden benifite in that it interrupts your sleep

pattern so much that that in itself can bring about a lucid dream,

(it worked for me).

(2) Set the “sound” alarm to go on at a time early in the

morning, at least an hour before you have to get up. When

the alarm wakes you up reach over and push the snooze

button, then put on the goggles and switch the alarm to

“lights”. Now you have 9 minutes to fall back asleep. If

you can fall asleep before the alarm (lights) comes on

again you will most likely be in a dream. If you aren’t

quite asleep yet, just push snooze again and try again.

I have been sucessful with this method. However more often than not

I am so tired when the alarm goes off that I either don’t bother to

mess with the goggles or I put them on and then fall into a deep

sleep and sleep right through the flashing lights.

This is not a fool proof method of attaining lucidity in a dream.

However I believe if you put enough effort into it (more then I

have), it could prove to be valuable aid.

Good Luck!

——————————————————————–

DISCLAIMER – I believe the device constructed in the way I describe

to be safe, but I’m no electrician. I’m not responsible if it burns

down your house, or shocks you. If you’re going to be taking apart

electrical appliances you really should know what you’re doing

yourself.

——————————————————————–

HOW TO BUILD THE DREAM LIGHT GOGGLES

PARTS: 1. AC powered LED Alarm clock with at least a 9 minute

snooze function. The clock I use is a Spartus model

1108, it is small, about 5.5″X3″X2″. It cost about

$9.00. Any small LED clock would probably work as long

as the voltage to the speaker is not too high. The

speaker voltage on the Spartus is about 7 volts DC.

2. Swim eye goggles. Cost about $7.00. The main thing is

to find a pair that is fairly comfortable. I’m using

Speedo brand. You can get cheaper ones, but it might be

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worth it to get a pair you can actually sleep with.

3. Two Radio Shack Red High-Brightness Jumbo Blinking Light-

Emitting Diodes Catalog No. 276-020 $3.99 ea.

4. One Low-Current Red LED (Light Emitting Diode) $0.89

5. About 6 feet of speaker wire.

6. One toggle switch. This should be a 3 pole, 2 position

switch, like Radio Shack’s Mini DPDT #275-663 $3.59

——————————————————————–

ASSEMBLY – STEP ONE:

Using a tapered steel centerpunch, or some other suitable device

burn a hole in the center of each plastic lens of the swim goggles.

A tapered punch works well. Use a torch to heat it up, it doesn’t

have to be red hot (if you make it red hot you will take the temper

out of the punch).

Then burn a hole in the lens until it is just the right size to

snugly fit the Jumbo Blinking Diodes. The diodes are tapered and

you don’t want them to fit all the way into the goggles or they

might touch your eyelids. Once you’ve done this put the goggles

aside until you wire up the diodes.

STEP TWO:

Making sure the clock is unplugged, unscrew the back and take the

clock apart. You should be able to get to the flat piezo type

speaker. Next burn a hole in the body of the clock at the top to

hold the toggle switch. Make sure you put it in a place where it

won’t touch anything on the inside of the clock.

STEP THREE

Cut the positive wire leading from the circuit board of the clock to

the speaker. Use a voltmeter to tell which one is positive. It’s

not necessarily the red wire. On the clock I used the black wire was

positive.

It really doesn’t matter if you use the negative instead of the

positive, except that the diodes are directional, they have a

positive and negative pole and so will only work in one way. The

way I’m describing is assuming you are using the positive side.

Be sure you cut the speaker wire in a place that you can get the

solder leads to it. Now solder the positive speaker wire you just

cut coming from the circuit board to the middle pole of the toggle

switch.

Now take the small red LED and solder the long lead of the diode

(Pos. side) to one of the outside poles of the toggle switch. I

found that there is a residual voltage in the speaker circuit even

when the alarm is not active, and this is enough to cause the diodes

in the goggles to emit a small amount of light even when the circuit

is not active. I tried resisters but I found that putting this red

LED in the circuit worked the best to prevent this. For this reason

this LED can be inside the clock box, just make sure it doesn’t

short against anything.

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Next solder one end of one wire in the two wire speaker cable to the

other lead of the red LED (the short one). Most speaker cable has a

way to identify one wire from the other. Some have a white line on

one wire, or one wire may be brass and other silver. It’s best to

use the wire with the marking so that you know that it is the

positive side. The length of the wire is to determine how far you

want to be from the clock when you’re sleeping. 6ft should be

plenty.

Now take the other end of the positive speaker wire and solder it to

the long (pos) lead of the first Jumbo Blinking LED. Then take a

short piece of speaker wire and solder it from the short lead of the

first Jumbo LED to the long lead of the second Jumbo LED. Be sure

you make this jumper wire the right length so that the two LEDs are

spaced the proper distance apart to fit in the goggles.

Next take the goggles end of the other speaker wire (neg. side) and

solder it to the short lead of the second Jumbo LED. Take the clock

end of that same wire and splice it into the negitive speaker wire.

This makes a complete circuit from the positive side of the circuit

board, through the toggle switch, through the lights in the goggles

and back to the negative speaker wire leading to the circuit board.

This means that when the switch closes this circuit the lights will

come on every time the clock sends an alarm pulse to the speaker.

Now you must conect the other side of the speaker wire you cut (the

speaker side) to the other outside pole of the toggle switch. You

will probably have to solder in a jumper wire to do this. This

completes the speaker circuit so that when the switch is set to

speaker the speaker sounds when the alarm turns on. Be sure you

insulate all your exposed conections.

Now burn a notch in the back panel of the clock for the goggles wire

to pass through and put a knot in the wire just inside the box so

that it can’t be pulled out. Now put the clock back together.

The last thing to do now is to put the Jumbo LEDs into the holes in

the goggle lenses. Use a black tape to tape them into place and

block out light into the goggles from outside. Insulate all the

exposed leads of the LEDs. Run the wire from the LEDs along the

goggle strap and tape them to the strap so that the wire exit the

goggles from the strap at the back of the head. Leave enough slack

to allow for stretching of the strap.

Well, now your ready. Good luck, and please report back to me if

you have any success (or problems) with it. I’m always hanging

around Sec. 13 of the New Age Forum. See you there I hope!

Jeff Wiley #70750,1544

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